It's 7:30 in the morning and your garage door won't budge. Your car is inside, you're already late, and you have no idea what's wrong. Here's how to handle it — fast, safely, and without making things worse.
Emergency? If your vehicle is trapped or you need immediate access, call us at (781) 222-DOOR. We prioritize emergency calls across the South Shore and can typically respond the same day. Or submit a repair request online and we'll call you back within the hour.
Step 1: Check the Obvious Stuff First
Power and Remote Battery
Check the outlet. Is the opener plugged in? Has the circuit breaker tripped? Many modern openers are plugged into a GFCI outlet in the ceiling — these can trip without warning. Press the reset button on the outlet itself.
Check the remote battery. Try the wall button inside the garage instead of the remote. If the wall button works but the remote doesn't, you need a new battery — not a repair call. A fresh CR2032 or AA battery (depending on your remote model) costs $3 at any drugstore.
Check the disconnect cord. Most openers have a red rope hanging from the trolley. If someone pulled it (to operate the door manually during a power outage), the opener is disengaged. Pull it back toward the motor unit to re-engage.
Step 2: Look for a Broken Spring
Inspect the Torsion Spring
How to identify it. Stand inside the garage and look at the horizontal metal bar above the door. The spring is the coiled metal tube mounted on that bar. If it's broken, you'll see a visible gap — the coil will be split in two. Sometimes you heard a loud bang earlier in the morning; that was the spring snapping.
What happens when it breaks. The torsion spring counterbalances your door's weight — a standard 16x7 door weighs 150–250 lbs. Without a working spring, the opener motor can't lift that weight. The motor may run but the door won't open, or it may move a few inches and stop.
Do not attempt to open the door manually. Without spring assistance, the full dead weight of the door falls on you. This is how hands and backs get hurt. Leave the door closed and call for service.
Never attempt to repair or replace a torsion spring yourself. A wound torsion spring contains stored energy equivalent to a powerful projectile. Improper handling causes severe injuries every year. This is a professional-only repair — no exceptions.
Step 3: Check the Safety Sensors
Sensor Alignment and Obstruction
Where to look. Two small sensors are mounted on each side of the door track, about 4–6 inches off the ground. One has an amber/yellow light (sending), one has a green light (receiving). Both should be solid — not blinking.
Common causes of sensor failure. A spider web across the beam. Dirt on the lens. A garden hose, recycling bin, or stray item blocking the path. A sensor knocked out of alignment after something hit it.
What to do. Clear any obstructions. Wipe both lenses with a dry cloth. If the lights are blinking, the sensors are out of alignment — loosen the wing nut on the bracket, adjust until both lights are solid, then retighten. This fix takes 5 minutes and requires no tools beyond your hands.
Step 4: Look for an Off-Track Door
Door Off the Track
Signs of an off-track door. The door looks crooked. You can see daylight along one side when the door should be closed. The rollers have visibly jumped out of the track.
How it happens. Physical impact (backing into the door), a broken roller that falls out of the track, or a broken spring where someone tried to force the door anyway.
What to do. Stop trying to operate the door — manually or with the opener. An off-track door under opener tension can buckle or collapse. Disconnect the opener by pulling the red rope and leave the door in place until a technician arrives. Do not try to re-seat the rollers yourself — you risk making it significantly worse.
Step 5: Check for a Snapped Cable
Broken Lift Cable
How to spot it. Look down both sides of the door at the bottom corners. The cable runs from the bottom bracket up along the side of the door to a drum on the torsion bar. If it's snapped, you'll see loose, coiled wire on the floor or hanging free.
Why it's dangerous. Cables are under significant tension and work in conjunction with the spring system. A snapped cable often means the door is also off-balance — operating it can cause a drop or collapse.
What to do. Same as above — disconnect the opener, leave the door in place, and call for service. Cable replacement is typically done alongside a spring replacement when the cause is a spring failure.
When to Call vs. Fix It Yourself
| Problem | Safe DIY? | Typical Cost |
|---|---|---|
| Dead remote battery | Yes | $3–$8 |
| Tripped circuit breaker / GFCI | Yes | $0 |
| Disconnect cord disengaged | Yes | $0 |
| Sensor misalignment | Yes | $0 |
| Broken torsion spring | No — call a pro | $225–$350 |
| Snapped lift cable | No — call a pro | $150–$250 |
| Door off track | No — call a pro | $150–$300 |
| Dead opener motor/board | No — call a pro | $80–$450 |
What Our Service Call Looks Like
Our standard repair service call starts at $189. That covers the diagnostic, your tech's time, and most minor adjustments. Parts are additional — but you'll receive a full written quote before any work begins. No surprise charges, no pressure.
For most common failures — broken spring, snapped cable, roller replacement — the repair is completed in the same visit. Our trucks are stocked with parts for every standard door size and weight.
If you're in Quincy, Braintree, Weymouth, Milton, Hingham, or surrounding South Shore towns, we can typically schedule same-day. Submit a repair request or call (781) 222-DOOR and tell us what you're seeing. We'll give you a straight answer about what's wrong and what it'll cost. See our verified customer reviews from neighbors across the South Shore.